ARID COLLECTION
Designed by JULIA KOERNER | JK Design GmbH 2020
Final results of Julia Koerner’ s Re-FREAM Research “Digital Vogue - Between Organic and Synthetic Processes” In Co-Creation with Technology Partners STRATASYS, HARATECH, PROFACTOR and the University of Art and Design Linz – Department of Fashion & Technology.
The work leading to this invention has received funding from the European Union Horizon 2020 Program under grant agreement no 825647
Re-FREAM is a collaborative research project where selected artists and designers team up with a community of scientists to rethink the manufacturing process of the fashion industry. The goal is to develop new concepts for the future of fashion by means of new processes and aesthetics that are inclusive and sustainable.
Julia Koerner is revolutionising design possibilities in the fashion industry through her work in 3D Printing. Over the past ten years she has collaborated with major Haute Couture houses and also created Oscar-winning costume designs.
Julia Koerner’s research “Digital Vogue – Between Organic and Synthetic Processes” focused on digital processes from 2D to 3D for nature-inspired geometries; and the connectivity and adaptability of textiles with multi-color 3D-printed parts; with an underlying focus of material efficiency and sustainability.
The design process is driven and inspired by imagery of natural artifacts with a juxtaposition of oceanic and arid environments. The digital designs are 3D printed in an innovative way, without any support material and directly on sustainable fabrics and in multicolor, creating an enigmatic visual effect when the garment is in motion while maintaining the comfort and wearability of fabric garments. We used the 3DF Polyjet printer by Stratasys.
The final outcome, the ARID collection amalgamates the research into a collection of 38 3D-printed parts that can be combined together to form a full-dress, or cascade into a number of different looks and combinations. The collection allows personalized size adaptability through modified connectors which are derived from 3D-scans of the wearer. The collection’s design takes inspiration from the crystalline formations of the Dead Sea in its earth-tone arid textures, yet shimmers as the 3D-prints flow with fabric movement. This collection and final outcome exemplifies the possibilities of digital design process and 3D-printing.
During the final phase of our Re-Fream project, Julia Koerner and the Technology partners worked on finalising a prototype garment to showcase the research. The collection is designed in a cascading manner, it can be worn as a full dress or it’s elements can be disassembled and worn with regular traditional clothes. The garment consists of a jacket with different lengths, a skirt, a corset, and a series of accessories. The structure of the seams is based on the muscle layout and anatomy of the female body.
There is no sewing involved in the final assembly of the parts, instead, all seams are connected with 3D printed joinery. For the first time, 3D printed connectors are being used in the assembly of textiles.
The design displays months of research into textiles, joinery, and digital design processes. The ultimate goal within Re-FREAM was that the design workflows are fully digitized; from design to production leading to ‘local production’ and ‘mass customization.’
CREDITS:
Technology Partner
STRATASYS
PROFACTOR
HARATECH
Fashion & Technology (UFG)
Creative Region Linz, STARTS, European Commission
External Consultancy
Pattern Making Physical Prototyping: Shany Albalak
Graphic Design Drawings | Visual Documentation: Kyoung Eun Park
Digital 3D Animation | Visual Documentation: Chenming Jiang
Fashion Consultant and Business Strategist: Olivia Wagner | LIV CONNECTIVE
Press & Social Media Publications | Blog Posts: Sonja Fink
Photographer & Creative Director: Ger Ger
Photo Assistant: Carter Quick
Production: LA K50
Model: Hannah Fuchser
Hair & Makeup Artist at OPUS Beauty: Nathaniel Dezan
Footwear: United Nudes
Videography: Michael Wells